2007 Road Trip - New Orleans
Once again, in June, Doreen and I headed out on our annual road trip. With my new car (Doreen at the wheel and me riding shotgun) a cooler full of goodies, a full tank of gas, road maps and this year a compass, we were on our way.
I should mention, it is at this point as we are driving away from the house we've been known to look at each other and say - "OK - which direction? But this year we actually had plotted out a plan.
Destination - New Orleans
We initially started our trip with the intention of pushing "hell bent for election" on interstates to get as far as Denver before we started our touring. The logic was, we have travelled most of the area between Calgary and Denver and it would give us more time to explore the more southern part of our journey. Well, that idea lasted about 4 hours into our trip. Somewhere around Shelby, Montana I started looking at different roads and new areas of interest. Oh well, so much for logic. We never did get anywhere near Denver!! When I'm navigator, our plans never seems to last past the border for some reason.
Little Bighorn, Montana
The Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument preserves the site of the June 25, 1876 Battle of the Little Bighorn, near Crow Agency, Montana. It also serves as a memorial to George Armstrong Custer's 7th Cavalry and a combined Lakota-Northern Cheyenne and Arapaho force.
Custer National Cemetery, on the battlefield, is part of the national monument. The site was first preserved as a national cemetery by the Secretary of War on January 29, 1879.
Broadus, Montana
Judge's Chambers Restaurant specializes in food prepared from fresh products each day. A chef's garden provides herbs and greens, root vegetables in season. Sauces are prepared fresh each day and homemade bread is baked everyday. The chef uses local sources for eggs, lamb, strawberries, and other products that are seasonally available.
Wall Drug, South Dakota
I have been telling Doreen about Wall Drug for years and we finally managed to put it on our route. We spent a delightful afternoon shopping and playing like a couple of kids.
Badlands National Park, South Dakota
South on highway 240 for a quick trip through Badlands National Park. The cactus and flowers were in full bloom. We came across a few mountain goats coming down the face of a sheer cliff. Amazing how they maintain their footing. It was a beautiful day for a drive and a big bonus, very little traffic.
1880 Town, South Dakota
The 1880 Town began as a movie set, though it was never used for filming by the movie company that constructed it. The set was given to a local resident, Clarence Hullinger, in payment for the antiques he supplied for the planned movie.
The town consists mainly of old buildings that were found in the area, and over the last several decades, it has been expanded with many additional authentic old buildings, artifacts and memorabilia.
In the upstairs level of the main entrance building, an impressive exhibit of props used on the Dances With Wolves set are on display. On the lower level are collections of artifacts, furniture and buggies once used in the old west.
Outside in a coral and shading himself under an awning, we found "Buck" (Cisco), Kevin Costner's horse ridden in the movie. He was said to be 35 years old at that time.
We bellied up to the bar and had a cold "juice", had to get bailed out of jail, and headed out of 1880 Town.
Corn Palace - Mitchell, South Dakota
Another unique place of interest is the "Corn Palace" in Mitchell, South Dakota. I last passed through there with my husband and children in 1989 and was curious to see what changes there might be.
The exterior artwork was "in progress" however the interior still held an assortment of cubicles where people were selling their wares. The popcorn from here is soooo delicious.
The city's first Corn Palace was built in 1892 as a way to prove to the world that South Dakota had a healthy agricultural climate. It has become known worldwide and now attracts more than a half a million visitors annually. The exterior of the Palace is redecorated yearly in a new theme using naturally colored corn, other grains and native grasses.
Branson, Missouri
On route to Branson, we did a quick dogleg through Sioux City, Nebraska across the Missouri River to Sioux City, Iowa (just to add Nebraska to our trip). From there we went straight south through Iowa and took another dogleg into Leavenworth, Kansas. We looked, but did not find the location for Leavenworth Prison. Then we hooked up with Interstate 70 back through Kansas City, Missouri on through to Clinton, Missouri where we spent a nervous night under a tornado watch. Lightning storms are fascinating, but a bit frightening when driving and we were happy to be under a fixed roof.
The next day, after carefully plotting a route to avoid the flooding from the storms, we made it to Branson, Missouri.
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| Karen & Patsy Cline |
Patsy Cline
We made a quick stop at the Tourist Bureau just north of Branson, booked our hotel and purchased tickets for the Legends Concert and The Haygood Family.
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| Doreen & Alan Jackson |
Alan Jackson
The Legends Concert headliners were Alan Jackson, Britney Spears, Temptations, Blues Bros and a special surprise visit from Patsy Cline.
Elvis had left the building and was not in attendance. A thoroughly enjoyable show and the incredible voice of "Patsy" took us back to our teens.
Scoops
The next day we toured the local area and made a cooling off stop at Scoops, an old fashioned ice cream parlour on a hilltop overlooking the city.
Scoops is set as a 1950's style malt shop with neon flashing, records hanging and the music to match the era.
It's amazing the places we find while just "tootling" along. At the top of the hill we could overlook the home of Andy Williams - through the trees, of course.
White River Landing
Just when we thought we had run out of things to do, we stumbled onto White River Landing park at Hollister where the Branson Belle Showboat was about to set sail on Table Rock Lake.
We held up the 1880's-style paddle wheeler (including the 500 people on board) while we purchased last minute tickets and ran like hell down the ramp and at my age - not a pretty sight. We DO have a tendency to make an entrance.
Two hours later, after a lovely meal served during live entertainment of Showstoppers, we did a little shopping in the stores along the landing and then raced back to the hotel to change for evening performance of the Haygood Family.
Eureka Springs, Arkansas
This little town is built mainly on hillsides and many of the homes are supported by stilts down the backside of the house. Incredibly beautiful and will require another trip to explore further. It was obvious we hadn't allowed ourselves enough time to properly tour the area.
Books and maps do not do justice to the "hills of Arkansas". The highway numbers changed so much we never quite knew which one we were on. Suffice to say we went from Eureka Springs to Harrison and then turned south on Hwy 7 to connect with Interstate 40.
Anyone in the vicinity should take the time to travel this highway. It surprised us with numerous sights, incredible scenery and a few laughs along the way. From Dogpatch to Mystic Caverns to Booger Hollow - well worth the drive.
Mystic Caverns - Harrison, Arkansas
I have been trying to get Doreen to tour some of the underground caves we've come across for 6 years now and finally convinced her to join me. It wasn't until I got home and uploaded the pictures that I realized just how paranoid she really is at being underground.
The "deer in the headlights" stare into the camera tells it all and I laugh every time I look at it.
(She would be the one with her knees knocking wearing the hat.)
The caves were fantastic and worth the time to stop - at least I thought so. I'm not sure Doreen remembers much of the tour.
Dogpatch, Arkansas
Just south of Mystic Gardens on Hwy 7 we came across a Ghost Town but access was closed either for reconstruction or safety reasons. We stopped and took pictures but were unaware until we started posting to this website, that it was the original town of Dogpatch - named after the famous cartoon strip.
The name of the town had been changed to Marble Falls but eventually was abandoned in 1991. It's unfortunate that there are no signs posted to advise travelers of the history of the area.
Jasper, Arkansas
En route into Jasper, we came across numerous examples of homes and buildings that were built in mid-1800's.
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| Chaney Log Cabin |
The Chaney Log Cabin was reconstructed in Jasper to preserve its history. The floor joists are not puncheon (split log) type but whip sawed. Every stone, log, sill and peg were numbered to assure proper reassembly when it was moved from Osage, AR to Jasper, AR by the Newton Country Historical Society.
Buffalo River Canyon
The Buffalo River Canyon Scenic Viewpoint shows Mt. Judea in the Boston Range of the Ozarks at 2169 ft. above sea level.
The Buffalo River flows from west to east 1414 ft below this point - making it the deepest canyon in the Ozarks.
Hilltop Cafe
The citizens of Arkansas highly promote their own tourism business. Hill House Inn was recommended as the place to eat by several shop owners along the route.
Unfortunately, they were closing for the evening just as we arrived so we weren't able to sample the food. Maybe next time.
Booger Hollow, Arkansas
What else can be said when you unknowingly drive into the community of Booger Hollow. You have to stop and check it out.
The name originated with the belief that the hollow was haunted due to the numerous graveyards located there. Booger, in this case is a variant of bogie or boogie, as in boogie man. So to call the place Booger Hollow is a colorful local term meaning Ghost Valley. Legends of America - Booger Hollow
The owner of Booger Hollow Trading Post sold in 2004, but the new owners have not reopened the attraction, ending 40 years in operation. Currently, Booger Hollow is closed and abandoned, another ghostly reminder of days gone by.
Louisiana Purchase State Park,
Holly Grove, Arkansas
Holly Grove, Arkansas
First of all, we had no idea the marker for the Louisiana Purchase would be found in Arkansas. It's one of those - hit the brakes and hang a hard left when you spot the sign.
At the end of the 2 miles into the site, the road ends and the headwater swamp begins. This raised boardwalk goes deep into the swamp with information markers along the path. 830,000 acres were purchased for $15,000,000. Less than 3 cents an acre.
This stone marks the base established Nov 10, 1815 from which the lands of the Louisiana Purchase were surveyed by United States engineers. Erected by the Arkansas daughters of the American Revolution sponsored by the Languille Chapter.
Burning Tobacco
Shortly before we crossed into the state of Mississippi, we observed huge clouds of black smoke climbing into the air. It turned out to be farmers burning off old crops.
Often called field burning, this technique is used to clear the land of any existing crop residue as well as kill weeds and weed seeds. Field burning is less expensive than most other methods such as herbicides or tillage but because it does produce smoke and other fire related pollutants, its use is not popular in agricultural areas bounded by residential housing. Let's not forget it also gets incredibly hot. I could barely tolerate the heat from across the highway.
Great River Road State Park,
Rosedale, Mississippi
Rosedale, Mississippi
If we thought Arkansas was magnificently lush and green, Mississippi's scenery took our breath away. From the ground to the tops of trees, it's difficult to discern one from the other.
Magnolia Trees
The trees were in full bloom and the scent from the magnolia tree was unlike anything found in a bottle. We couldn't have timed our trip better this year to capture the Magnolia Trees in all their glory.
From the pod to full bloom - these blossoms are huge. If I could just figure out how to grow them in Alberta !!!
Vicksburg, Mississippi
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| Erected 1926 by Colonial Dames |
Fort Nogales 1791
Fort Nogales, which was the first settlement at Vicksburg, was established by the Spaniards on this spot in 1791. In 1798, it passed from the possession of Spain to the United States and was re-named Fort McHenry. It was used as a Confederate fort during the Civil War.
Vicksburg Siege
Abraham Lincoln said, Vicksburg is the key. The war can't end until the key is in our pocket. Beginning on May 16, 1863, General U.S. Grant held the city under siege, cutting off all supplies driving citizens to caves to escape shells. From July 1st through the 3rd, the tides of the civil war turned against the South as the Confederates were defeated at The Battle of Gettysburg.
On July 4th, C.S.A. General John C. Pemberton surrendered Vicksburg, the last Confederate stronghold on the Mississippi River, to General Grant and the Army of the West.
After a six week siege the Union gained control of the Mississippi, and the Confederacy was effectively split in two, and cut off from it's Western Allies.
Vicksburg is not great for directing travellers to areas of historical interest. The cemetery and cannons at the NW entrance to town have to be viewed from across a 4 lane highway - with no visible area to safely pull off. We found the showboat and visitors centre (on our own) and not much else.
Directional signage was not the city's strong point. The locals couldn't tell us where to find antebellum / plantation homes but they all knew where the Walmart was. Doreen made a comment that it's almost like they lost the war and didn't want anyone to know about it. Doreen's sister from Houston had insisted we include Vicksburg because of it's history and colour, so needless to say we were a tad confused. Did we come in on the wrong road? Did we ask all the wrong people? I doubt if we'll ever find out why we missed everything as I'm sure there is lots to see - somewhere.
Grand Gulf Military Park, Port Gibson, Mississippi
Grand Gulf is not a place we had on our agenda. We remembered our history about the fight to control the traffic along the Mississippi River but had no idea where the stronghold was.
Grand Gulf Military Park is located northwest of Port Gibson between Vicksburg and Natchez. In May of 1962, the Grand Gulf Military Monument Park was officially opened, dedicated to preserving the memory of both the town and the battle in which occurred there.
Travelling south on Hwy 61, we spotted a sign that said "Historical Site" so of course we weren't going to miss this one. The site had an information centre, museum, town replica, battlegrounds and an eerie cemetery we could walk through. It even had an old mill and still.
Finally, we had found what we were looking for. Signs were everywhere to explain what had happened, who was fighting, what equipment was used and what the outcome was. We spent two or three hours and thoroughly enjoyed the morning.
This 400 acre landmark is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and includes Fort Cobun and Fort Wade, the Grand Gulf Cemetery and several restored buildings dating back to Grand Gulf's heyday.
Grand Gulf Cemetery
People of the old town of Grand Gulf were buried here as well as some soldiers. On December 28, 2002, two soldiers were exhumed and reinterred on February 22, 2003. Due to erosion these soldiers' graves were in danger of being lost forever.
The road in was spectacular with lush vegetation that seemed to close in on us. You couldn't tell where the ground ended and the trees began.
The scenery took on an animated look of cartoon animals that moved in the breeze. The park bordered along the Mississippi River and was obviously a flood area. Most of the summer cabins or trailers were built on raised platforms such as shown above which allows use of the land without loss of property.
Port Gibson, Mississippi
We drove in and around most of these houses of which several are privately owned. There are a few available to tour.
Port Gibson is on the Mississippi River between Vicksburg and Natchez. Its lavish 19th Century homes, old storefronts, and battlefields recall the days of plantations and old southern hospitality.
Rosswood Plantation - Lorman, Mississippi
Rosswood was a thriving cotton plantation of 1250 acres, long before the Civil War, with 105 slaves working the fields.
The Rosswood Mansion is a classic Greek revival home of 14 rooms, with 14 foot ceilings, 10 fireplaces, columned galleries, a winding stairway, and original slave quarters.
Completely restored and furnished with beautiful antiques and unusual items collected around the world, it has been home since 1975 for Colonel Walt Hylander and his wife Jean, who share its heritage and their treasures with their guests.
The most disappointing part of our trip up to this point had been the lack of information directing tourists to old plantation homes available for viewing. Even in Vicksburg, the bed and breakfast ones we did find were closed. We almost missed the sign for Rosswood - it wasn't very big but luckily Doreen spotted it. Then when we got there, she didn't want to go to the door because it didn't look like it was open to the public. I harassed her into knocking anyway and the door opened.
We were greeted by the most lovely and hospitable couple who said it was their home and for $10 each they would give us a little tour. Well, this little tour took us through every room in the house (3 floors) including the slaves quarters (with some original furnishings) and Jean gave us a complete history of the home and all the unique furnishings in it as well as a short video. In the basement, Jean had a small Christmas and gift display of items for sale and we liberated her of a good portion of her stock. Her husband Walter also interjected with interesting points of fact. The home also served as a bed and breakfast with four beautiful rooms available.
Unfortunately it was only mid afternoon and after two and a half hours, we had to get back on the road. We did promise that if we ever made a trip through that area again, we would come back and spend the night.
We also promised to include our visit with them on our websites which I hope returns the kindness they showed us.
They have been opening their home for over 30 years and we wondered if other members of their family would continue the tradition, should they ever decide to retire. If not, who will keep the history alive with such grace and affection when the storytellers aren't there anymore.
Old Country Store
As we were leaving Rosswood, Jean and Walter told us to stop at the Old Country Store back on Hwy 61 and have some of Mr. D's famous southern food. The Old Country Store was built in the late 19th century and was, in fact, an old country store. Today, it is a restaurant serving classic southern buffet.
Mr. D.
We were greeted by Mr D himself - Arthur Davis (owner, cook, janitor and waiter) who served our table and also sang a song for us.
The food was phenomenal, service with a song and a smile and if not for the recommendation of a local neighbour, we would have driven right on by, not realizing what it was. We promised to give Mr. D a bit of free advertising as well for his friendly hospitality.
Update - April 2019 Newspaper Article:
Mr. D. Signs Contract
Mr D. (Arthur Davis) of the Old Country Store in Lorman is pictured signing a contract in the office of Drake, Burrell & Andrews which states that he is in business with Food Truck, Inc. of Wall Street. He will be traveling to New York City in the near future to teach people how to cook his famous frient chicken.
Congratulations to Mr. D. Maybe more fols north of the Mason-Dixon Line will learn to appreciate Southern cooking!
The Myrtles Plantation - St. Francisville, Louisiana
Seven years of these road trips and it still amazes me that our most interesting or unusual finds are by accident. In this case, we had left Rosswood and were pretty much satisfied having toured a real plantation. We had to put on the miles to make up for the three stops already made that day and we were barely an hour out of Vicksburg. So, we were not wasting any time and soon crossed into Louisiana and a pretty little town called St Francisville.
Suddenly, Doreen slammed on the brakes, flipped on the blinker and pretty much pulled a U-turn at a corner instead of turning left. I had no idea what was going on and while I was picking up the maps and junk from the floor, she said, "I just saw an old house, with a sign out front and a parking lot full of cars - maybe it's an old plantation or bed and breakfast. That would be the understatement of the day.
It was indeed a plantation and a bed and breakfast. The office is in a small storefront building at the rear of the home and as we entered, heard the clerk tell the couple in front of us, "sorry, but we're full."
They left and Doreen went to the counter to get brochures and chat with the clerk while I browsed the gift shop area. He was apologetic but there was still an evening tour we could take.
So while we were signing up for the tour, the phone rings and the clerk says to us - "we have a double cancellation. You can have a room with your own bath or a room with a bath down the hall." We specifically asked if the rooms had 2 beds and he assured us they did so we chose the one with the attached bath. It was a bit pricey but we'd only get to do it once - right?
We had just enough time to throw our luggage into the upstairs room and get back in time for the evening tour. We opened the door and surprise - only one queen bed that was 4 ft off the floor. We explained that we'd confirmed there would be two beds and this wasn't satisfactory, - it wasn't even a king.
The young lad helping us up the vertical, skinny staircase with our luggage said "I'll be right back." Ten minutes later he came back with a second key for the adjoining room (for same price) and put Doreen's luggage into the other bedroom. We happily trotted downstairs to gather with the others for the tour. And now comes the "kicker".
This was not an ordinary tour, it was a Mystery Tour. And this was not an ordinary home. The Myrtles Plantation, circa 1796, has the dubious distinction of being called the "most haunted house in North America".
I won't go into great detail but I believe the words "holy shit" came out of my mouth. Neither of us had a clue and in the rush and confusion to get the rooms and get back for the tour, we hadn't read the brochures or tour information. We daintily picked our jaws up off the floor and continued on with the group.
It was dusk as the tour began and the courtyard was lit with thousands of tiny lights shining through the moss and flowers on the trees, giving everything an eerie look. The guide was well versed and gave a thorough and haunting explanation of the 23 deaths that were to have taken place over the past 211 years.
As we wandered through each room, the guide would describe where the hauntings took place, and which character they believed was doing the haunting. I have personally had a couple of experiences that could not be explained but am by no means easily swayed. None the less, it turned out our bedrooms were two of the more "active" rooms for these ghosts. Oh Joy !!
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| The Orb |
The Orbs
I want to point out the picture on the left, just above the man in the blue shirt exiting the door. You can see what I've been told is an "orb". These "orbs" turned up on several pictures we took at both Rosswood and the Myrtles plantations.
You might say it's a light reflection or spec of dust on the lens and you may be right. But the orbs also showed up on exterior photos in complete darkness and not in sequential order.
The fact I find most amazing is...I took over 1800 photos on the trip and the only place these 'specs of dust' show up are in the plantation photos. The tour ended, leaving Doreen and I slightly flabbergasted with the thought of spending the night in a "haunted" house. It wasn't like we were in beds three feet apart - she was completely in another room.
I needed a stepladder to get onto the bed and didn't think I'd be making more than one trip to the washroom. No such thing as TV, so we read for a bit and then called it a night. I left the bathroom light on, laid my head down and next thing I knew it was morning. No ghost !!
I did forget to mention one thing. When we were touring the outside grounds, I had looked up at where our bedroom windows were and remarked to Doreen, the drapes reflect a peach colour in the light of the room. When we went back to our rooms, the doors were locked and the rooms were in darkness. We had left the lights on. Energy conscious staff or did we have a visitor ???
Myrtle Trees
The Myrtles Plantation was named for the abundance of Myrtle trees planted on the property. They are a lasting tribute to those who called it home.
The Myrtles has been featured in New York Times, Travel and Leisure, Country Inns, Colonial Homes, on the Oprah Show, A & E, The History Channel, The Travel Channel, The Learning Channel, National Geographic Explorer, and Good Morning America. It was also featured in The Haunting of Louisiana.
St. Francisville, Louisiana
The town of St. Francisville, LA was established in 1809. Said to be a town "two miles long and two yards wide", it has a total area of 1.8 sq mile. It is home to many houses and plantation homes that are on the national register of historic places. Many of the historic homes are open for tours and some operate as Bed and Breakfasts.
As we toured the town before departing the next morning, we came upon this celebration of Civil War History. One Saturday in June each year marks The Day The War Stopped in St. Francisville, LA.
This event commemorates the brief moment of brotherhood given for the burial of a Union officer, Lt. Commander John E. Hart, by his brother Masons. It stopped the war, if only for a few mournful moments. How fortunate for us to be in town on that one particular Saturday.
Bayou Sara, Louisiana
Instead of following Hwy 61 south to connect with I-10 into Baton Rouge and then New Orleans, we opted for a change and took the less travelled road southwest to Bayou Sara and caught a flattop ferry across the Mississippi River and picked up the old Hwy 1.
The hwy eventually brought us to I-10 on western outskirts of Baton Rouge and we cruised on down to New Orleans.
New Orleans, Louisiana
We managed to find Canal Street and get a hotel close to Bourbon Street with surprising ease (especially since Doreen was driving and big cities and her don't get along well). We'd already decided we weren't driving around ourselves and would do city tours, cab it or walk to our destinations.
The Marketplace and Cafe du Mode
It was still early in the day so we headed down to the Marketplace. Before anything else, Doreen insisted on introducing me to Beignets - a french donut laden with sticky, messy icing sugar.
After a relaxing coffee and the beignets at Cafe du Mode, we shopped at the Marketplace.
We had to buy beads, masks, boas, every other trinket we could find, and, of course, gifts for the dogs and cats. I had already purchased mementos from all our stops, but this is where we stocked up with miscellaneous gifts for family, friends and co-workers.
It's a good thing we were driving a bigger car this year or one of us would have had to fly or bus it home. Scary part was, this was only the half-way point of our trip. I bought a suitcase just to pack all the stuff I had purchased but somehow Doreen ended up dragging it around.
We hired one of the horse and buggy taxis to take us back to the hotel and got a small history and mini-tour in the bargain from the driver.
Bourbon Street
Doreen was quite insistent that no matter what - we had to go to Bourbon Street. We timed it right and arrived in New Orleans on a Saturday, just so we could take in the "street night life". Bourbon Street (French: Rue Bourbon) is a famous and historic street that runs the length of the French Quarter.
The most frequented section of Bourbon Street is "Upper Bourbon Street", an eight-block section of popular tourist attractions. The street is home to many bars, restaurants, strip clubs, as well as T-shirt and souvenir shops.
The upper end of Bourbon Street towards Canal Street is home to many of the French Quarter's strip clubs. A place where just about anything goes.
We strolled up and down the street, stopped in at a Blues Bar for a drink, wandered in and out of the novelty shops and Doreen posed with New Orleans' finest. There were police officers everywhere and they were friendly - mingling socially with the crowd. Their presence was felt but not feared. What a concept!!!
Even representatives from the fire department are part of the hospitality package. They bring the fire trucks and park them in the middle of the street.
After walking for hours, I was starting to poop out, but as you can see from the pic above, my "quiet" travel companion was just getting started - she only had one drink.
Louisiana Tour Company
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| Our Tour Guide - Jamie |
We booked a combination City/Katrina tour for the next morning. Our guide, Jamie, was born and raised in New Orleans and her commentary was knowledgeable, informative and occasionally opinionated. She gave us a personal feel for what the people of the city had been going through. Exceptional tour guide.
The Garden District
We first toured the city sites and points of interest, then the Garden District and eventually, St. Charles Ave. which is where many of the old mansions are located. It was amazing to see the amount of reconstruction still going on.
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| Taking a Break |
After the Garden District, we stopped for refreshments and washroom break before stepping out into the heat at the cemetery.
Jamie and her assistant took us through the grounds, first of all explaining why graves are above ground and how burials take place.
There are 42 cemeteries in New Orleans and on high ground, caskets are buried underground like most other places. Where water tables are high, burials are above ground and various types of vaults, tombs, crypts, and mausoleums house numerous members of a family.
Walls of individual vaults are usually found on the outside edges of cemeteries and often served a dual purpose as a perimeter fence.The severity of hurricane Katrina caused caskets to float out of cemeteries just as though they had been buried in swampland.
Levee Break - 9th Ward
This picture was taken by Craig Morris on Dec 22, 2006 on top of the levee overlooking the 9th Ward where the breach took place. The force of the wall of water razed all of these houses.
As far as the eye can see here (roughly 12 city blocks), not a house was left standing. A year and a half later the whole lower end of the 9th Ward was still in ruins but a handful of people were living in the few houses still standing.
Our guide gave us a thorough description of how searches were carried out for survivors. The codes written on the house in red spray paint describe who searched, when, and what the outcome was. The zero in bottom quadrant means "no bodies found".
We heard the horror stories first-hand of people missing and assumed to have left the city, to be found months later in the attics of their homes where they were trapped and died because they had no way to get through the roof.
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| Katrina Shambles |
I had wanted to visit New Orleans since the early 70's and had never made it. The city is definitely rebuilding but as of last year, about 50% of the population had not returned and it is going to be slow in healing.
Rebuilding
Tourism is the one commodity New Orleans has managed to hang onto and it will likely be it's salvation. Tourist dollars will help rebuild this magnificent, historical city.
If you have the opportunity to visit, don't pass it up. And invest in tours. You get to see all areas in safety and comfort and the hassle of traffic, parking and restricted areas become non-existent.
Houston, Texas
We left New Orleans Sunday afternoon after the tour was completed and followed I-10 west, the first leg of the homeward trip. Our first stop would be "The Woodlands", just north of Houston to visit Doreen's sister Lois, brother-in-law Bruce and their 3 dogs - Ricki, Lucy and Sadie.
We enjoyed a lovely visit, went for a walk with the dogs and then I cooled off with a dip in the pool. Ricki, the german shepherd, jumped in and went swimming with me.
The dogs obviously "rule the roost" and Lois and Bruce are the "hired help" Beautiful home, fun visit and Doreen's sis is one of a kind.
Next morning, while we were packing the car and saying our goodbyes, a thunderstorm rolled in and the humidity was so thick you could slice it with a knife. As we were driving out of Houston, we left the black clouds in the rear view mirror, the sun broke through and it was clear skies ahead.
San Antonio, Texas
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| San Antonio Riverwalk |
Riverwalk
One original goals of this trip was to get to San Antonio and tour the site of the Alamo. Since Doreen had been there before, she had a couple other locations she wanted to show me. We got a motel and cabbed it downtown to the Riverwalk area.
We went to the Imax theatre and viewed the historical movie about the Alamo, did a bit of shopping and then hopped on the boat tour around the canals. The San Antonio Riverwalk is a 2 1/2 mile stretch of beautifully landscaped waterfront.
Along it are spectacular hotels, restaurants, night clubs, bars, shopping centers and businesses. By the time the round trip boat tour was over, it was dark and most of the stores closed.
We hailed a cab and paid close attention to the roads he took to get back to the hotel so we could drive back the next morning to the Alamo.
Ever been watching a movie and you look at the scenery backdrop and say, I know where that is??? Just recently I was watching an old movie named "Cloak & Dagger" with my grandson and kept thinking that same thought until it dawned on me why I was familiar with the location. A great deal of the movie was filmed using the Riverwalk as the setting.
The Alamo
Originally named Mission San Antonio de Valero, the Alamo served as home to missionaries and their Indian converts for nearly seventy years.
The Alamo, established as a dusty outpost of the Spanish Empire in 1718, was the first of San Antonio's missions to be founded. Construction began on the present site in 1724.
In 1793, Spanish officials secularized San Antonio's five missions and distributed their lands to the remaining Indian residents. The Battle of the Alamo between the Republic of Mexico and the rebel Texan forces during the Texas Revolution, took place at the Alamo Mission in San Antonio, Texas from February 23rd to March 6th, 1836.
Despite the siege of the Alamo by the Republic of Mexico, the 13-day holdout stalled the Mexican Army enough to allow Sam Houston to gather troops and supplies for his later success at the Battle of San Jacinto.
The city of San Antonio has literally built up around the remains of this old mission and has preserved several blocks of history. It's a strange sensation to stand inside these walls and know men died on the same spot you are occupying.
We took so many pictures that day, it was difficult to decide which ones to choose. I have a feeling I will someday have to come back and add a section to this site, specifically dedicated to the Alamo.
After spending most of the morning at the Alamo Mission, we headed out of town. Doreen had a hankering to see "Luckenbach" since she's a huge country western fan and had heard it wasn't far from San Antonio. Turned out it was just an hour or so northwest of the city off I-10 and was quite easy to find.
Luckenbach, Texas
This tiny hill country hamlet where "Everybody’s Somebody" was established as a Trading Post in 1849. The Post Office/ General Store/ Beer Joint, was first opened in 1886 by August Engel, an itinerant preacher from Germany.
In 1970, Luckenbach, which remained in the hands of the Engel family the whole time, fell into eclipse. Benno Engel retired as postmaster and placed an ad in the local paper "TOWN FOR SALE" lock, stock and dancehall.
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| Post Office in Front - Bar in Back |
Luckenbach was purchased by Hondo Crouch, Guich Koock and Kathy Morgan. The trio began to use the nearly-abandoned buildings as a backdrop for anything that smacked of mirth and diversion.
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| Bartender Provided the Entertainment |
Featured were Hug-Ins, a Luckenbach World's Fair, Ladies State Chili Bust, the Mud Dauber Festival - and daily sessions of song-picking, domino playing and beer drinking beneath the 500-year-old oak trees.
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| Entertainment Tonight - Karen |
Today, over thirty years later, these events are still celebrated and the pickers are still pickin’ out under the big oak trees.
Luckenbach Texas became a massive hit for Waylon Jennings & Willie Nelson, bringing Luckenbach to its ultimate worldwide fame. Tour buses and tourists from around the world began to make Luckenbach a regular stop when visiting Fredericksburg area attractions. Willie Nelson returns to Luckenbach annually for his 4th of July Picnic with thousands of his closest friends.
Luckenbach Texas is a State of Mind, where you can kick back, relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. It's like stepping back in time.
Luckenbach was definitely a highlight of the trip for Doreen, who's an old guitar picker herself. She was in her glory and would have gladly hunkered down for another couple of weeks to wait for Willie Nelson to show up on the 4th of July. Sadly, we had to get back to reality and she was forced to bid farewell and get back in the car.
Fredericksburg, Texas
Fredericksburg, named after Prince Frederick of Prussia, is seventy miles west of Austin in the heart of Texas Hill Country. The town was one of a series of German settlements from the Texas coast to the land north of the Llano River. The first wagon train of 120 settlers arrived from New Braunfels on May 8, 1846, after a sixteen-day journey. Each settler received one town lot and ten acres of farmland nearby.
We found a motel village of rustic cabins in a park-like setting in the heart of town. They were absolutely charming. Not far from the cabins, we also found an old German cemetery we toured briefly.
There is the National Museum of the Pacific War and George Bush Gallery just off the main street. The town seemed to be very tourist friendly with an abundance of B & B's advertised.
Interstate 10 - Texas
It's about a 500 mile stretch between Fredericksburg and El Paso and not a lot in between. We did find a massive growth of cactus along the road and the state historic park of Ft. Lancaster on a hilltop but no gas stations. C'mon people, this is an interstate!!!!
Just as we were down to fumes, we came upon a turnoff that indicated fuel and we pulled off. The station was the only building as far as you can see in any direction at the junction of Hwy 11 and I-10 near Bakersfield and it was closed but at least allowed prepaid self-serve.
With a replenished tank of fuel, we were now in search of a place to "freshen up" without fear of cactus needles poking our behinds.
About 30 miles from the station, we drove into Ft. Stockton and smack dab in front of us was this wonderful sign we'd grown to love. I should mention Doreen and I have a food fetish. We go out of our way to find an IHOP just for their desserts.
Banana Caramel French Toast (My favourite)
Stuffed with banana cream, this diamond-shaped French toast is drizzled with caramel, walnuts and sliced, fresh bananas. Dusted with powdered sugar and crowned with whipped topping.
Original Stuffed French Toast (Doreen's favourite)
Cinnamon-raisin French toast stuffed with sweet cream cheese filling, topped with powdered sugar, and your choice of fruit topping: cool strawberry, blueberry or cinnamon-apple. Crowned with whipped topping.
Not only did we not run out of gas, we found an IHOP with clean washrooms and the friendliest young lad to wait on us. Just how much better can it get when you're on the road??
After a relaxing meal and daylight burning, we crawled back into the car and added another 150 miles to the speedometer before retiring for the night at Van Horn, TX.
El Paso, Texas
El Paso lies at the far western tip of Texas, where the Rio Grande breaks through the rugged mountains to bring water to the harsh Chihuahuan Desert. Though the surrounding landscape is dominated by desert scrub growth on the low hills and mountain sides, the river valley is fertile supporting a variety of trees and plants. As we approached the eastern side of the city, we turned off I-10 to follow the signs of the El Paso Mission Trail.
Spain sought to protect its interests in the northern frontier by establishing a network of presidios (military forts). A presidio was built in 1684. The settlement that grew up around the presidio became known as San Elizario. The flood of 1829 destroyed the original chapel, which was rebuilt in the same vicinity.
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| Presidio Chapel of San Elizario |
The present-day chapel was completed in 1882. Since then, the exterior of the building has changed little, except for the front facade. The interior was damaged by fire in 1935 and has experienced dramatic changes.
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| Socorro Mission |
These two mission churches and the Los Portales Museum and Information Center are located along the El Paso Mission Trail. They are privately owned by the Catholic Diocese and are actively supported by their local parishes. They are listed in the National Register Historic Places
I was unable to find any history on the stone wall encompassing the Virgin Mary. It reminded me of "Our Lady of Fatima" but I couldn't verify it's origin.
Socorro founded October 13, 1680, took its name from Socorro, New Mexico, from which the Piro Indians fled following the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. When the 1740 flood destroyed the original structure, the parishioners replaced it nearby. That second structure was also lost to flooding in 1829. Rebuilding was completed in 1843.
The mission was completely restored through a ten-year, community-based collaboration and reopened for use with a Mass on December 7, 2005.
Silver City, New Mexico
From El Paso, we followed I-10 north into New Mexico and west to Hwy 180 where we got off the interstate and back into touring. Hwy 180 took us to Silver City, another town rich in history of the old west.
Billy the Kid
Once an Apache Indian campsite, later the boyhood home of the notorious gunslinger Billy the Kid, and more recently a silver and copper mining boomtown, Silver City, N.Mex. (pop. 12,500) is as strikingly beautiful as it is historic. Cradled nearly 6,000 feet high in the rolling Pinos Altos Mountains, the town is adjacent to both the Gila Wilderness and the Continental Divide.
Recently selected as one of America's healthiest places to live and retire, Silver City boasts a mild climate, Victorian charm and low-key lifestyle that have long attracted visitors.
Billy the Kid Homestead
This 1870's style cabin was a gift from movie producer/director Ron Howard. It fits the era in which Billy the Kid lived here. The cabin was a part of the set of his 2003 movie “The Missing.”
The NM Dept. of Tourism negotiated the gift.
Billy the Kid lived in a small log house on this location from 1873-1875
He lived with his mother Catherine (died 1874), his brother Joe, and his stepfather William Antrim. The cabin was torn down in 1894.
Billy the Kid spent his early years in Silver City, and his childhood home is now the downtown site of the distinctive Murray Ryan Visitor's Center.
Silver City began as a rip-roarin' tent town in the spring of 1870, when a silver bonanza was discovered one half mile west of the present-day courthouse. Within less than a year, over eighty buildings had been constructed,, and in 1871, Silver City became the seat of Grant County. When the boom ended, the people stayed.
In those early years of development, all of southwestern New Mexico was plagued by Apache raids. Bands of these fierce warriors roamed the area, led by famous chiefs such as Chato, Cochise, Geronimo, Mangas Coloradas (Red Sleeves), Nana, Natchez and Victorio. Because of the rough terrain and strategic lookout points, the impenetrable Gila Wildness area was an important stronghold where the Apaches felt safe from US Army pursuit. Geronimo is said to have been born in the Gila Wilderness area.
We weren't able to tour this area but researched it when we got home. The City of Rocks and multitude of ghost towns in the area definitely put Silver City on a high priority list for us to revisit.
Old Silver City Cemetery
In this pioneer cemetery, still in use today, lie the remains of early settlers, merchants, miners, politicians and railroad men. Among those buried here are Kathrine Antrim (1829-1874), mother of Billy the Kid.
In the late 1800's, Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch were familiar with every saloon and soiled dove in Silver City. Between robberies, they worked as cowhands at a nearby ranch.
Billy the Kid spent his early years in Silver City, and his childhood home is now the downtown site of the distinctive Murray Ryan Visitor's Center.
Four Corners
From Silver City, we followed Hwy 180 northwest into Arizona connecting with Hwy 191 at Alpine. At this point we were concerned about finding a motel before dusk so we boogied up to I-40 and found a nice little motel called the Chieftain Inn.
The next morning we pulled into the adjoining gas station to fill up and nearly had a stroke at the exorbitant prices on the pumps. This was June/07 and throughout our travels, average prices were $2.90 to $3.30 /gal. Their price was $4.19/gal. In all the miles we'd put on over the years, this was truly the first time we'd come across outright price gouging. We put in only enough gas to get us to the next major stop, got back onto I-40 and then north on Hwy 191 again. At the very next station, the gas was $2.88/gal. It puts a whole new meaning into the phrase highway robbery.
After several road trips in and around this area we finally managed to make it to the Four Corners Monument. This is the only point in the United States where four states meet (Arizona, Utah, New Mexico and Colorado).
The Four Corners marker was erected in 1912. In 1992 the original cement pad was replaced by granite with bronze disks for the four state seals.
This is Navajo country and at the Four Corner's sight is a visitor center and outdoor market where assorted native artifacts, jewelry, rugs and pottery are sold. The dreamcatcher still hangs from my rearview mirror as a good luck traveler's charm.
A visitor can put hands and feet in all four states at the same time which, of course, Doreen and I had to do.
Bluff, Utah
Our visit to Bluff is never complete unless we stop at Twin Rocks Cafe, a delightful gift shop and restaurant at the foot of a pair of natural sandstone towers.
Each year we head home with more treasures than a couple of pirates. The food is really good, too.
Bluff is bordered on the south by the San Juan River and the Navajo Nation, to the east by farmland to the west by vast panoramic landscapes of Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley, and to the north, 300-foot sandstone bluffs, from which it derived its name.
Bluff was founded in 1880 by the famous "Hole in the Rock" expedition of Mormon pioneers, whose mission was to establish a farming community on the San Juan River.
The pioneers built their cabins in close proximity to each other to form a fort. Remains of the historic Fort Bluff are still well preserved.
Valley of the Gods, Utah
Valley of the Gods is a small scale version of Monument Valley, but, without a doubt equally as impressive and beautiful.
Valley of the Gods Loop
There is a 17 mile trail winding its way through the Valley connecting Highway 163 to Highway 261 at the bottom of Cedar Mesa.
Although the trail is relatively well maintained, it can be very rough and bumpy and subject to washouts. Some areas have rocks exposed from the shifting sands and scraping bottom is a strong possibility.
There are no tour buses or tourist traps in the area. There are no gas stations, gift shops, coffee shops, washrooms, and rarely any other tourists. Most are hesitant to bring their vehicles on the trail.
However, the solitude and serenity of the area is well worth the extra hour or so it takes to get through it. And on the plus side, it leads us right to the base Highway 261.
Highway 261, Utah
I wish there was a way to put a feeling into a photograph!! Highway 261 is definitely a "feeling". No matter how often I describe it, I'll never convey the emotion or the sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach as you crest the hill and you see what's in front of you.
Traveling this road has become a focal point in all our trips. We have somehow managed to include the area touring from both east and west coasts. I think we've secretly claimed Hwy 261 as our own personal road. I'm sure the state of Utah would like their taxes but they'll have to catch us first.
I absolutely love the signs here. The spelling of Mokee Dugway (Moki Dugway) changes from the top of the butte to the bottom. It says not recommended for trucks over 10,000 lbs. and the next sign shows a tractor trailer going down the hill.
It also says not recommended for RV's and we've seen several trying to round those curves. The drivers either can't read or think the 30 ft. beast they're in is called a minivan. Backing up is sometimes the only option - such as in the picture below.
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area established in 1972, covers 1,254,429 acres of mostly desert, encompassing the area around Lake Powell in Utah and Arizona.
The recreation area borders Capitol Reef National Park and Canyonlands National Park on the north, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument on the west, and Grand Canyon National Park on the south.
Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
On August 2, 1937, in Proclamation 2246, President Roosevelt set aside 37,711 acres of the Capitol Reef area, making it a National Monument. An Act to Establish The Capitol Reef National park in the State of Utah - became Public Law 92-207 when it was signed by President Nixon on December 18, 1971.
Capitol Reef National Park is 10 miles east of the town of Torrey, and 37 miles west of the town of Hanksville.
Behunin Cabin
In 1882 Elijah Cutler Behunin and his family built this cabin, and stayed a brief time until the rising river washed out their crops. Behunin was one of the first settlers in the area.
A family of ten lived here. Braided rugs covered the dirt floor. Ends of dress materials became curtains. There was a fireplace to cook in, and a water supply near the door. The family probably ate outside.
Father, mother, and the two smallest children slept in the cabin. The post bed almost filled one side of the room. By widening a dugout in the cliff, the older boys had a place to sleep. The girls made a bed in an old wagon box.
In this day and age we'd be lucky to get two children to sleep in the same room, let alone share a wagon box - outside.
Hanksville, Utah
We stayed at Hanksville for the night. We would have liked to stay at Torrey but it was just too late in the day and we figured there would be "no vacancy" if we kept going.
At the junction of Route 24 and Route 95 there is a unique gas station called appropriately "Hollow Mountain Gas and Grocery" and the store is built right into the rock.
Torrey, Utah
Torrey is in Wayne County in the south central part of Utah ten miles from Capitol Reef National Park. The town was settled in the 1880’s by Mormon pioneers. The population of the town itself is 120.
Doreen and I stayed in Torrey in 2005 so it was fun to stop here again. We loaded up on goodies at the General Store before heading out for the day's travel.
Montana to Home
Although we were still a very long way from home, for the better part, our touring was basically ended. We traveled up highway 24 to Salina, connected with I-15 into Idaho, Montana and home.
There is nothing prettier than Montana in the spring. One of my favourite drives is through the Wolf Creek area. Before we knew it, we were back at the border.
I had bought so many souvenirs and gifts this year, I knew I was over the allowable "free" limit at customs and was dreading the outcome. My children are all grown, so giving up my first-born wasn't an option. With a sinking heart, I handed my tallied receipts to the official behind the counter and after several calculations (my heart kept sinking lower and lower) was issued an invoice for $37.34. I almost fell over. All these years I have been so careful not to exceed the limits and when I really blow the budget, my charge was a piddly $34.37. I almost wanted to climb back in the car and go back and finish all the shopping I'd missed out on. Anyway, the customs clerk was happy he'd made my day and wished us a safe trip home. We were back in Alberta.
It's always good to be home but sad that we have to wait another year before heading out again.
As I finally sign off this page - hopefully there will be no more changes or additions - Doreen and I will be leaving for our 2008 holidays in 19 days. Where are we going?? - to be determined. We've discussed a west coast run from Vancouver to San Diego. Possibly to Tombstone or Silver City. Or maybe follow the original old highways of Route 66 from Chicago to LA. But wherever we go, I'll be sure to take you along for the ride.
2007 Map
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